Naturwunder Palawan

Nach einem gemütlichen Tag im Hotel, den wir mehrheitlich am Pool verbracht haben, geht es nun weiter in Richtung Süden. Coron mit all seinen Inseln gehört zu Palawan. Eine von Norden nach Süden verlaufende Inselkette mit einer grossen Hauptinsel. Forscher sind der Meinung, dass diese Insel früher eine Landbrücke zu Borneo gebildet hat, was die Vielfalt an unterschiedlichsten Tieren erklären würde. Zurecht wird daher Palawan mit all seinen natürlichen Schätzen als Naturwunder bezeichnet. Doch schön der Reihe nach.

Mit der Fastferry setzen wir vom Hafen in Coron nach El Nido über. Vorbei an unzähligen, grün bewachsenen Inseln mit Stränden und Klippen in allen Formen. Nach etwa vier Stunden erreichen wir den touristischen Hotspot El Nido. Wer in den Philippinen reist, kommt an einem Besuch hier kaum drumherum. Nach Bezug des Zimmers im Hostel buchen wir gleich die Touren für die nächsten Tage.

Wir stehen früh morgens auf und geniessen noch kurz ein leckeres Frühstück in unserer Unterkunft, bevor wir den gemieteten Roller besteigen. Unser Tagesziel ist der Norden mit den berühmten Stränden. Auf der gut ausgebauten Hauptstrasse kommen wir schnell voran. Etwas zu schnell, den ein erster Blick auf das Smartphone zeigt, dass wir sämtliche Abzweigungen verpasst haben. Uns stört dies aber nicht weiter, denn wir geniessen den Anblick der Landschaft um uns herum und erkunden die Gegend ohne Tipps und Karten. Auf dem Rückweg finden wir doch noch die unscheinbare und schlecht signalisierte Ausfahrt. Auf einer holprigen Landstrasse mit geschätzten hundert Schlaglöchern pro Meter, kommen wir langsam dem Strand näher. Der Nacpan Beach ist ein riesiger goldgelber Sandstrand, der sich über einige Kilometer erstreckt. Gemütlich geniessen wir den Anblick von der berühmten Mad Monkeys Bar aus und gönnen uns eine Stärkung.

Wir beschliessen unseren Trip in Richtung Süden weiterzuführen und kommen bald an zwei Einheimischen vorbei, die uns beim vorbeifahren „Zipline“ nachrufen. Es wird nicht lange nachgedacht und schon befinden wir uns auf einem Hügel, an einem Stahlseil hängend. Wir rasen in schwindelerregender Höhe auf eine vorgelagerten Insel zu, die wir leider zu schnell erreichen. Das war ein Spass!

Wer in El Nido ist, muss sich mit den Inselhopping Touren befassen. Wir haben auf den Rat unseres Gastgebers Antonio gehört und die Tour C gebucht. Ein Ausflug, der noch lange in Erinnerung bleiben soll. Nicht weniger als fünf Stops liegen auf unserem Tagesprogramm. Angefangen bei einem Strand, der sich hinter riesigen Kalksteinkilippen versteck, bis zu bunten Korallenriffen in glasklarem Wasser, das Einblicke in die gut intakte Unterwasserwelt bietet.

Inbegriffen im Trip ist ein leckeres Essen gemeinsam mit der Gruppe. Unsere Schiffscrew baut direkt am Strand ein fantastisches Buffet auf, während wir noch mit Maske und Schnorchel bewaffnet den Meeresbewohnern nachspionieren.

Während den Überfahrten werden wir von unserem Guide mit Kartentricks und Gesangskontest unterhalten. Leider reicht unsere Darbietung von Göles ‹Schwan so wiss wie Schnee› nicht um die koreanischen Gruppenmitglieder zu überzeugen.

Tags darauf geht es für uns weiter nach Port Barton. Ein kleiner ehemaliger Fischerort, der erst in den letzen Jahren mit dem Tourismus begonnen hat. Unsere Unterkunft ist etwas schwierig zu finden, denn sie liegt in eine Hinterhof eines Ladens. Die Umgebung lädt nicht wirklich zum Betreten ein, jedoch ist das neu gebaute Haus mit vier Zimmern inklusive privatem Badezimmer modern und komfortabel eingerichtet. Unsere Gastgeberin Maureen lebt direkt daneben in einem Bambushaus, welches auf Stelzen steht. Sie macht uns jeden Tag ein Frühstück und gibt Tipps zur Umgebung. Auch einen Roller bietet sie uns zur Miete an, den wir sogleich nutzen um zum White Beach zu kommen.

In den letzen Tagen vor unserer Ankunft hat es geregnet und dadurch ist die Strasse in eine miserablen Zustand. Riesige Löcher, überschwemmte Teile und die steilen Auf- sowie Abfahrten reduzieren unsere Reisegeschwindigkeit stark.

Nach etwa dreissig Minuten erreichen wir Coconut Beach. Nur ein einziger Tourist aus Brasilien und wir sind hier. Durch die Palmen scheint die Sonne auf den weissen Sand unter unseren Füssen. Der kurze Spaziergang bevor wir weiter zu unserem Ziel fahren war herrlich!

Der White Beach wird seinem Namen absolut gerecht. Weisser Sand, der aussieht wie Puderzucker entlang des türkis grünen Wassers. Wir legen uns in eine Hängematte und verbringen einen gemütlichen Strandtag mit lesen, schwimmen und dem einen oder anderen Bierchen aus der Strandbar.

Erst als die Sonne hinter uns zu sinken beginnt, treten wir die abermals abenteuerliche Rückfahrt an. Kurz bevor es dunkel wird, erreichen wir unseren Ausgangspunk und suchen uns ein gemütliches Restaurant zum Abendessen. Es gibt riiiiesen Pizzas für zwei und es ist so lecker, dass wir gleich mehrfach hier essen gehen.

Die gebuchte Inselhopping Tour startet vom zwei Minuten entfernten Strand aus. Wir beide und vier amerikanische Lehrerinnen, die in China unterrichten, werden vom Schiffsführer Emanuel freundlich begrüsst. Gleich nachdem alle Formalitäten mit der Küstenwache geregelt sind, legen wir ab und fahren in Richtung der vorgelagerten Inseln. Mitten auf dem Meer stoppen wir plötzlich ab und ankern. Wir schnappen uns das Schnorchelequipmemt und springen ins Wasser. Unter uns befindet sich ein Riff mit den verschiedensten Korallenarten. Leider ist das Wasser voller Plankton, welches überall auf der Haut zwickt und pickst. Daher fällt der Aufenthalt hier auch nicht so lange aus und das Boot fährt weiter. Die nächsten Spots sind vorwiegend abgelegene, idyllische Strände mit klarem Wasser und Palmen, an denen wir uns sonnen und im angenehm warmen Wasser schwimmen. Die beiden letzten Stops des Tages haben es aber in sich. Turtlebay, eine Meerenge zwischen zwei Inseln, wo sich anscheinend immer Meeresschildkröten aufhalten und eine Sandbank mitten im Meer mit vielen Seesternen.

Mit dem Minibus fahren wir nach Puerto Princessa. Die grösste Stadt auf Palawan. Von hier aus werden wir zwei Tage später nach Cebu weiter fliegen. Der Ort wirkt zuerst etwas chaotisch, sobald man sich aber dem Treiben der Stadt angepasst hat, bemerkt man einen angenehmen und ansteckenden Rhythmus. Neben top modernen Shoppingmals liege einheimische Märkte und überall sind kleine Läden, die Speisen zu günstigsten Preisen anbieten. Wir schlendern gemütlich durch die Strassen und entlang der Promenade.

Über unsere Unterkunft haben wir eine Tour zum Sabang Undergroundriver gebucht. Zwei Stunden geht es mit dem etwas engen Minivan durch den Dschungel nach Sabang, welches im Westen der Insel direkt am Meer liegt. Da der Touristenandrang enorm gross ist, empfiehlt uns unser Guide in der Zwischenzeit eine Tour in den nahegelegenen Mangroven. Mit dem Paddelboot werden wir durch einen Brackwasserfluss geführt, indem wir Schlangen, Leguane, Vögel und Fische überall zwischen den Ästen der Mangrovenbäumen entdecken.

Nach dem Mittagessen werden wir dann zu den Booten geführt, die uns zum Ausgangspunkt der Rivertour bringen. Hier steigen wir mit Weste, Helmen und Audiogide ausgerüstet in kleine Ruderboote um. Das Abenteuer startet als wir durch den grossen Eingang der Höhle in die Dunkelwelt eintauchen. Lediglich unser Bootsführer hat eine Stirnlampe, die etwas Licht auf die teils riesigen Steinformationen wirft. Er führt uns 1,5km tief in die Höhle hinein und erklärt dabei parallel zum interessanten Audiogide die spannendsten Geschichten über den Fluss. Die Tour zeigt nur einem winzigen Teil der Höhle, die immer noch nicht komplett erforscht werden konnte. Absolutes Highlight ist die sogenannte Kathedrale. Eine riesige Kammer, die aussieht wie eine Kuppel über unseren Köpfen. Teilweise bis zu 65 Meter über uns schlafen hunderte Fledermäuse, Vögel und andere Tiere. Mehrfach wird uns mitgeteilt, dass wir beim Hochschauen den Mund schliessen sollen, denn nebst dem «Holy Water», welches erfrischend von der Decke tropft, gibt es noch den «Holy Shit», den wir besser nicht im Mund haben möchten.

Die Tour ist enorm auf Nachhaltigkeit ausgerichtet. Es wird pro Tag nur einer begrenzten Anzahl an Besuchern der Zutritt gewährt und die Bootsführer achten penibel darauf, dass niemand das sensible ökologische Gleichgewicht der Höhle stört. Der Undergroundriver zählt übrigens zu den 7 Unesco Naturwunder. Wir sind absolut beeindruckt von der Führung und der Höhle, so dass Sändys Geographenherz vor Freude hochspringt.

Auch unsere Ausflugsgruppe war super lustig und interessant. Wenn unter den Reisenden das Thema „Ferien“ zur Sprache kommt, stellen wir jeweils grosse kulturelle Unterschiede fest. Die Philippiner haben pro Jahr nur 2 Wochen Ferien und ein unbezahlter Urlaub undenkbar, da man sonst sofort ersetzt wird. Bei den Chinesen ist es noch extremer. Die beiden Mädels aus Xiamen erzählen uns, dass sie abgesehen von einer Woche alle anderen Ferientage (selbst wenn es öffentliche Feiertage sind) nach- oder vorarbeiten müssen. Wenn wir dann von unseren 4, respektive 5 Monaten erzählen, kriegt man fast ein schlechtes Gewissen. Nichtsdestotrotz sind genau diese Reiseerfahrungen und kulturellen Austausche so wertvoll, um sich daran zu erinnern, welches Privileg es ist, in der Schweiz zu leben.

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