Unser Guide in Moalboal hat uns bereits gewarnt vor den dunklen Mächten auf Siquijor. Die kleine Insel im Süden von Cebu liegt nur zwei Bootstunden entfernt und bietet viel zu entdecken. Die Cebuanos meiden diese Gegend jedoch um jeden Preis. Viele Geschichten über dunkle Mächte und Voodoopraktiken, die hier betrieben werden, sind tief in den Köpfen der Einheimischen verankert. Wir bleiben gespannt, wie unser Trip auf die Insel verläuft…
Unsere Unterkunft liegt im südlich gelegenen San Juan. Im kleinen Restaurant direkt an der Strasse werden wir freundlich begrüsst und durch den Flur in den Innenhof geführt. Alles ist noch im Bau und überall sind Handwerker an ihrer Arbeit. Jede freie Fläche ist überstellt mit Wäsche, Baumaterial, Möbeln und der Zement wird direkt auf unserem Weg angerührt. Jeder grüsst uns mit dem hier üblichen „hello mam-sir“, bis wir nicht weit von dem „Betonwerk“ unser Zimmer finden. Ein grosszügiger heller Raum mit schicker Einrichtung und super sauberem Badezimmer. Nach unserer letzten etwas heruntergekommenen und sehr unsauberen Bleibe sind wir erleichtert, eine so günstige und saubere Übernachtungsmöglichkeit gefunden zu haben.
Wir wollen in den nächsten zwei Tagen mit dem Roller die ganze Insel erkunden und mieten gleich in der Unterkunft einen Scooter. Gratis dazu gibts Tipps zu Sehenswürdigkeiten und Restaurantempfehlungen.
Wir starten unsere Tour früh morgens, so dass möglichst wenig andere Touristen vor uns an den Hotspots sind. Die beiden ersten Anlaufstellen sind Wasserfälle mit kühlem Wasser und einer fantastischen Jungelumgebung. Die kleinen Oasen sind unweit von den Strassen entfernt, so dass jeweils nur einige Minuten Fussmarsch nötig sind, aber der Lärm der vorbeifahrenden Fahrzeuge nicht bis zu den gemütlichen Wasserbecken durchdringt. Was für ein Anblick!
Unsere nächsten Stops sind zwei Strände im Westen und Norden der Insel, an denen wir jeweils Resorts mit gemütlichen Liegen und Hängematten finden. Wir geniessen die Ruhe und versinken einige Zeit in unsere Bücher. Traumhaft, so seine Tage verbringen zu können und die Insel scheint weit besser als die Vorankündigungen über all das Unheil.
Über die heissen Strassen rasen wir Richtung Westen um dort den Sonnenuntergang zu beobachten. Bei einem der Überholmanöver fühlt sich plötzlich der Untergrund an wie Seife. Schnell bremsen wir ab und fahren an den Strassenrand. Toll! Unser Pneu ist komplett platt.
Nach einigen Gesprächen mit Passanten finden wir heraus, dass nur etwa 300m den Hügel hinauf eine Werkstatt ist, die uns auch gleich den Platten repariert. Umgerechnet kostet uns die Reparatur inkl. einem neuen Schlauch nur CHF 4.- und die Fahrt in den Sonnenuntergang geht weiter.
Unsere zweite Tour sieht vor, dass wir den inneren Teil der Insel erkunden. Gemütlich fahren wir also eine kleine Passtrasse hoch und bemerken, wie die Zivilisation allmählich abnimmt, bis Häuser nur noch alle paar Kilometer zu sehen sind. Als uns ein kleiner Bus überholt und mehr als das übliche ein- oder zweimalige Pupen zu hören ist, denken wir uns noch nichts dabei. Erst als er direkt neben uns ein Fenster herunter lässt und eine Frau uns zuruft, bremsen wir ab. Sie deutet auf unser Hinterrad, das bereits wieder platt ist. Super! Anscheinend hat uns die Insel doch etwas mitzuteilen, denken wir, und laufen talwärts der Strasse entlang.
An einem Haus fragen wir einen Mann nach Hilfe, der nur sehr schlecht Englisch spricht und wohl nicht seine beste Laune hat. Er steigt ohne viel Wort auf sein Motorrad und fährt davon. Wir nehmen einfach mal an, dass wir wohl hier warten sollen. Nach etwa zehn Minuten kehrt er mit einem andern Typen zurück. Der öligen Kleidung nach muss das unser neuer Mechaniker sein. Mit simpelsten Werkzeugen und grossem Improvisationsgeschick repariert er unseren Roller sehr rasch und hat seinen Spass mit den beiden komischen Touristen. Erneut haben wir Glück im Unglück gehabt.
Unser Ausflug geht weiter bis zum höchsten Punkt der Insel, auf dem ein Turm gebaut wurde. Die Aussicht ist fantastisch. Die ganze Insel sehen wir von oben und können in der Ferne alle Strände vom Vortag nochmals in voller Länge betrachten.
Auch die anschliessende Abfahrt auf der anderen Seite bietet tolle Aussicht. Überall Palmen, Reisfelder und kleine Häuser.
Insgesamt gesehen ist die kleine Insel eine echte Perle, obwohl anscheinend einige magische Dinge hier geschehen. Wir kommen zum Schluss, dass die Warnungen von Cebu wohl auf die vielen verlassenen und düster-aussehenden Häuser oder Kirchen zurückzuführen sind, denn die meisten davon könnten als Kulisse für jeden beliebigen Horrorfilm dienen.
Bei einem köstlichen Abendessen am Strand finden wir unseren Frieden mit den Geschehnissen rund um unseren Roller und blicken ganz gespannt auf die nächsten Tage in Bohol.
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