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Philippinen

Wind und Wellen in Siargao

Unsere Reise durch die Philippinen wollen wir mit einem Inseljuwel beenden und nehmen hierfür eine lange Reise von Southern Leyte nach Siargao auf uns. Mehrere Busse und Fähren führen uns über Surigao durch den Osten der Philippinen, bis wir schlussendlich nach fast 13 Stunden an unserem Ziel in Siargao ankommen. Die Busse und Boote sind teilweise so kalt, dass wir uns mit allem was wir in unserem Rucksack finden, zudecken müssen.

Zuvor haben wir unsere Unterkunft nahe des Zentrums von General Luna gebucht. Leider haben die Angaben auf Airbnb nicht einmal annähernd gepasst und wir befinden uns stattdessen ausserhalb aller Touristenspots. Na ja, mit dem gemieteten Roller ist dies natürlich kein Problem mehr. Vielmehr beschäftigt uns während sieben von insgesamt acht Nächten die Nachbarschaft. Nebenan hat gerade ein neues Hotel eröffnet. Dies wird mit Livemusik und Karaoke jeden Abend bis spät in die Nacht gefeiert. Zusätzlich werden wir auch noch von der anderen Seite von einheimischen Karaokekünstlern mit schiefklingenden Hits bedient.

Gleich am ersten Tag fahren wir los um die Gegend zu erkunden und uns für einen Kitesurfkurs anzumelden. General Luna ist komplett anders, als wir die Philippinen kennengelernt haben. Viele Läden zum Shoppen, überall Restaurants mit fantastischem Foodangebot und hunderten Unterkünften. Natürlich steigen auch die Preise an einem Ort wie diesem stark an und wir bezahlen rund das Doppelte für alles was wir zuvor zu günstigen Preisen geniessen konnten. Trotzdem fühlen wir uns hier enorm wohl. Gut, haben wir insgesamt zwölf Tage auf Siargao geplant! 

Eigentlich sollte unser Kitekurs bereits am zweiten Tag unseres Aufenthalts starten, doch die Insel zeigt bereits morgens ihre Natur. Regen und starker Wind lassen die gebuchte Lektion ausfallen, so dass wir einem alternativen Programm nachkommen müssen. Bei einem gemütlichen Kaffe haben wir von Natasja aus Holland den Tipp für eine Yogastunde im Lotus Shores erhalten, die wir auch sogleich austesten wollen. Kurz umziehen und schon sind wir bereit für unsere erste Yogastunde. Alles beginnt mit einer kurzen Instruktion und dann gehts auch bereits richtig zur Sache. Der Schweiss tropft ähnlich wie der Regen draussen und die Muskeln lassen bereits den Schmerz vom nächsten Tag erahnen. Wir geben alles und bringen die 90 Minuten schliesslich durch. Glücklicherweise lässt uns Arianne noch etwas im Liegen durchatmen. Nach dieser sportlichen Leistung lassen wir den Rest des Tages etwas gemütlicher ausfallen und genehmigen uns erstmal ein kühles Bier. Leider gibt es auf der ganzen Insel einen Bierengpass und nur wenige Restaurants haben noch einige Reserven gebunkert. Benji ist dieser Zustand seeehr unsympathisch.

Bereits früh Morgens stehen wir in kompletter Ausrüstung knietief im warmen Wasser, wo Quentin, unser Instruktor, uns die ersten Informationen und Anweisungen zu unserem Kitekurs gibt. Die ersten Übungen sind noch leicht zu meistern und beide zeigen eine ruhige Hand am grossen „Drachen“. In den darauffolgenden Tage verbringen wir jeweils täglich zwei Stunden in der ruhigen Bucht direkt vor dem Strand. Hier herrschen meist perfekte Bedingungen zum Kiten. Lediglich die Gezeiten sind hier ziemlich ausgeprägt, da bei Ebbe ein Grossteil der Wassersportfläche trocken fällt. Tatsächlich treffen wir während zwei unserer Lektionen genau die Ebbe und wir müssen jeweils mehrere hundert Meter weit durchs Wasser laufen um wieder genügend Wassertiefe zu haben. Währenddessen geniessen unsere Instruktoren ihren Sport und flitzen immer wieder an uns vorbei.

Bis zum Schluss unseres viertägigen Kurses schaffen wir es uns aus dem Wasser heben zu lassen und eine längere Strecke zu gleiten. Wenn wir den anderen Kiter jeweils zuschauen, wirkt es wesentlich leichter, als wir es nun selbst erfahren haben.

Nicht nur im Wasser hat Siargao viel zu bieten, auch das Landesinnere ist landschaftlich wunderschön. Bei unserer langen Rollertour bestaunen wir neben den vielen Reisfeldern mit den schlammgebadeten Wasserbüffeln auch riesige Palmenwälder und viele kleine traumhafte Flüsse inmitten tropischer Landschaften. Der riesige Bauboom ist hier allgegenwärtig. Strassen werden gebaut oder verbreitert und in jedem Dorf entstehen neue Gebäude. Die Insel wird sich wohl bereits kurze Zeit nach unserer Abreise wieder komplett verändert haben. Nicht nur wir empfinden dies so, denn auch bei Gesprächen mit Einheimischen in der Kaffeebar wird dieses Gefühl immer wieder bestätigt.

Bei Surfern ist die Insel besonders für die perfekte Brandung an der Ostseite bekannt. Fast an jedem Strand können wir Einheimischen, wie auch Touristen beim Wellenreiten zusehen. Im Norden von General Luna befindet sich zudem der berühmte Surfspot «Cloud 9». Dort gibt es ein riesiger Wassersteg mit mehreren Etagen, wo Zuschauer den Profis in den riesigen Wassermassen zusehen können. Direkt daneben bieten viele Filippinos ihre Dienste als Surflehrer an und so sind auf den eher kleinen Welle dutzende wackelnden Touristen auf ihren langen Brettern zu sehen. Auch Sändy ergreift die Gelegenheit um ihr Können zu vertiefen. Mit Erfolg reitet sie während einer Stunde Welle um Welle.

Die letzten drei Tage unseres Aufenthalts haben wir bereits lange zuvor geplant. Wir haben eine Unterkunft etwas weiter im Norden von General Luna gebucht, die uns Steffanie (vom Segeltripp in Coron) empfohlen hat. Ein Glamping direkt am Meer. Bereits einige Tage zuvor haben wir uns hier umgesehen und uns riesig darauf gefreut. Wir können das vorderste Zelt mit der besten Aussicht beziehen. Wahnsinn. Nebst dem geräumigen Raum befindet sich direkt dahinter ein riesiges Badezimmer. Das ist wohl die schönste Unterkunft, welche wir je auf unseren Reisen gesehen haben.

Die Nächte hier sind fantastisch. Wir schliessen lediglich die Moskitonetze im Zelt und lassen so den angenehmen und nach Meer duftenden Wind direkt durch unser Schlafzimmer wehen. Ein Traum, wenn morgens die Augen aufgehen und direkt das dunkelblaue Meer glitzert. So lassen wir die letzten Tage auf den Philippinen gemütlich ausklingen. Nur noch zwei Nächte in der Grossstadt Cebu trennen uns nun von unserem nächsten Reiseziel: Vietnam!

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